After eating a very bland, home cooked dinner (pasta, mayonnaise and sweetcorn), we headed to the church to hear the monks sing latin hymns. Although we are not religious, it was quite a moving experience - maybe it was because we couldn't understand what they were saying?
This morning I was prepared for the cold, stockings, sock hands etc. I was slightly disappointed when it wasn't as cold as yesterday - not! It was a slow start to the morning, as the yellow arrows were almost non-existent. Ant and I walked aimlessley over paths for about 40 minutes, we were able to see footprints in the dirt with our torch... so felt some comfort that others may also have gone on the wrong track.
Once on track again, we made it to Foncebadón for sunrise. The view was amazing, Foncebadón looked down onto the hills we had just walked with the sun rising in the distance. There was a lone cross in a village that was all but deserted, you almost felt like there was no-one else in the world...
Today we would reach the highest point 1,505m. At the top is an iron dcross, that has become a symbol of the way of St James. For possibly hundreds of years, pilgrims have been bringing stones (or other icons)to leave as a sign of respect or gratitude. Ant and I had bought stones from London to leave in this magical place. We were lucky enough to be the only people there at the time, which made the moment even more special.
Tuesday, April 1, 2008
Montazuma, Kansas, United States - Backwards farming folk...bless their inbred heart.
We arrived in Montezuma after driving for about 4 hours. It's a really small town with a population of somewhere under 1000 people (many people asked who we were because they'd never seen us before), many of which are farmers and Menonites (funny little religious people). Dave's family has a huge farm there and we went out to watch basketball after a hearty home-cooked meal. Over the next couple of days Ben helped work around the house (for some gas money) went to the driving range, and we went to the local bar and had mini bar olympics (I sucked and lost quickly). This was the only bar in town and was full of three people. The next day we went into the country and shot some clay pigeons. This was a true american small town experience!
Astorga, Spain - San Martin del Camino to Astorga
We found that in San Martin del Camino on a Sunday, there were indeed no shops open.
We ended up having dinner with about 20 other pilgrims at the Albergue. We had someone translate to the hospitalier (owner of the Albergue)that we were vegetarians, and after asking 3 times whether we ate fish... I think he got the gist that it was vegetables only. So for our dinner we had a huge ensalada (salad), and patatas fritas (french fries)- it was a great meal, though we are now a little worried this is all we will eat for the next couple of weeks.
Being eager little walkers, we started our day at 6.30am. It doesn't seem to get light here until after 8.00am, so I suppose we'll have to get use to walking in the dark.
Today we've managed to find our way, and the yellow arrows have been kinder to us. Part of the walk this morning was to walk for about 3km through a heavy wooded area. Me being the baby I am was too scared for us to walk through alone, so we waited for other pilgrims to come along, before venturing in.
The scenery today has been wicked, we've walked through small stone villages and through fields of maize. Our legs are starting to really ache today - especially our shins. We've stopped quite a few times to take off our shoes, and massaged our feet.
After arriving in Astorga and dropping off our bags, we headed straight for a pharmacy to buy some deep heat. Thankfully we bought a Spanish translation book, so I was able to get across to the pharmacist what we needed. Ahh, the bliss of putting deep heat on tire muscles.
Today has been pretty cold, so I've invested in some black knee high stockings for the cooler mornings - I'm going to look a right sight, but at least I'll be warm!
Already we've met some amazing people. On the second day we are starting to feel more like pilgrims, I look forward to the days to follow.
We ended up having dinner with about 20 other pilgrims at the Albergue. We had someone translate to the hospitalier (owner of the Albergue)that we were vegetarians, and after asking 3 times whether we ate fish... I think he got the gist that it was vegetables only. So for our dinner we had a huge ensalada (salad), and patatas fritas (french fries)- it was a great meal, though we are now a little worried this is all we will eat for the next couple of weeks.
Being eager little walkers, we started our day at 6.30am. It doesn't seem to get light here until after 8.00am, so I suppose we'll have to get use to walking in the dark.
Today we've managed to find our way, and the yellow arrows have been kinder to us. Part of the walk this morning was to walk for about 3km through a heavy wooded area. Me being the baby I am was too scared for us to walk through alone, so we waited for other pilgrims to come along, before venturing in.
The scenery today has been wicked, we've walked through small stone villages and through fields of maize. Our legs are starting to really ache today - especially our shins. We've stopped quite a few times to take off our shoes, and massaged our feet.
After arriving in Astorga and dropping off our bags, we headed straight for a pharmacy to buy some deep heat. Thankfully we bought a Spanish translation book, so I was able to get across to the pharmacist what we needed. Ahh, the bliss of putting deep heat on tire muscles.
Today has been pretty cold, so I've invested in some black knee high stockings for the cooler mornings - I'm going to look a right sight, but at least I'll be warm!
Already we've met some amazing people. On the second day we are starting to feel more like pilgrims, I look forward to the days to follow.
Oklahoma, United States - Waffle House Virgins
We arrived in Oklahoma late today to stay with Brian. We went out for some drinks at Bennigans to catch up and meet his girlfriend Laura. Turns out the Brian is working as a production assistant for the guy that directed Children of the Corn and produced the Godfather. It looks as though Brian is soon to be famous!!! Then next morning we ate breakfast at the infamous Waffle House. We have seen these restaurants everywhere on our travels and have never eaten at one. We have been warned by everyone that its nickname is the Awful house. It lived up to its reputation and it was one of the greasiest, cheapest meals of all time!
San Martin, Spain - León to San Martin del Camino - 24.9km
Ant and I ended up being able to spend the night together, we found a room with double bunk beds especially for couples - boo hoo!
We were able to sleep until about 2.00am... this appears to be when others had fallen into a deep sleep, and started snoring. For a while there were only a few people snoring, kind of in an annoying melody - snort, snort, snooooort etc. Anyway, to start with the noise wasn't loud enough to totally interrupt our sleep, but by 3.00am there was a 'trumpeter of a snorer'... needless to say he then kept us awake until 6.00am - great start!
Even with our little sleep we managed to drag our sorry selves out of bed at 6.00am, as first planned. The Albergue but on breakfast of stodgy bread, home-made marmalade, biscuits and tea/coffee - just what we needed to kick start our day.
Now, to help guide your way along the Camino, and to each village you will find yellow spray painted arrows. These can be found all over the place - on the road, on telephone polls, walls etc.
We found early on that you have to have a keen eye for these little buggers, and managed to get lost within 10 minutes of trying to find our way out of León. Thankfully we met other walkers, and together we were able to find our way out, though about an hour later we managed to get lost again - doh!
So blindly Ant and I walked in the direction on west, in the hope that we would soon stumble across the 'already famous' arrows. Again we were saved by other walkers, a lovely Swedish couple (both the tender age of 70 I might add) who help us along our way!
After what seemed forever we arrived to our destination - San Martin del Camino for 2.00pm.
It's so nice to be able to take of our shoes to allow our throbbing feet to breath. So far there neither of us have blisters (early days yet I think), though our feet are tired and sore.
The accommodation is basic but nice. It's Sunday here, and in this little village there doesn't seem to be anywhere open. For now we just want to relax!
We were able to sleep until about 2.00am... this appears to be when others had fallen into a deep sleep, and started snoring. For a while there were only a few people snoring, kind of in an annoying melody - snort, snort, snooooort etc. Anyway, to start with the noise wasn't loud enough to totally interrupt our sleep, but by 3.00am there was a 'trumpeter of a snorer'... needless to say he then kept us awake until 6.00am - great start!
Even with our little sleep we managed to drag our sorry selves out of bed at 6.00am, as first planned. The Albergue but on breakfast of stodgy bread, home-made marmalade, biscuits and tea/coffee - just what we needed to kick start our day.
Now, to help guide your way along the Camino, and to each village you will find yellow spray painted arrows. These can be found all over the place - on the road, on telephone polls, walls etc.
We found early on that you have to have a keen eye for these little buggers, and managed to get lost within 10 minutes of trying to find our way out of León. Thankfully we met other walkers, and together we were able to find our way out, though about an hour later we managed to get lost again - doh!
So blindly Ant and I walked in the direction on west, in the hope that we would soon stumble across the 'already famous' arrows. Again we were saved by other walkers, a lovely Swedish couple (both the tender age of 70 I might add) who help us along our way!
After what seemed forever we arrived to our destination - San Martin del Camino for 2.00pm.
It's so nice to be able to take of our shoes to allow our throbbing feet to breath. So far there neither of us have blisters (early days yet I think), though our feet are tired and sore.
The accommodation is basic but nice. It's Sunday here, and in this little village there doesn't seem to be anywhere open. For now we just want to relax!
Atlanta, Georgia, United States
Our drive to Atlanta took under 12 hours. There's lots of trees here. We're staying with Joel and Celina and their puppy - Hansel (so hot right now!!!) Ben went to College in San Diego with Joel and he and Cel are getting married next year. Yesterday was Ben's 28th. We found an Aussie bakery so we all had meat pies. I also bought a lamington and a milo bar mmmmmm...... We went to a park and played with Hansel and had a few drinks. Then we went out to dinner. I love not having a job. Happy Birthday Ben. It was really nice staying with them and checking out a new city.
Leon, Spain - Santiago here we come...
We started our day by saying farewell to our beloved Goldie... quite an emotional experience to say the least, and headed for Stanstead Airport - destination Valladolid!
Had an interesting flight to Valladolid with Ryan Air, the pilot almost over shot the runway on landing. There were a few screams from fellow passengers, though I was so scared I forgot to breath!! I suppose... you get what you pay for aye!
Caught a bus to León, where tomorrow we will start our pilgrimage. We are staying in our first Albergue (cheap hostel like accommodation especially for pilgrims), but can't help to feel a little guilty that we are not yet 'real' pilgrims!
Ant and I have to sleep in separate accommodation, so I am to share a room with 50 other women. There are no pillows or blankets on the beds - though, I suppose this is the life we have resigned ourselves to for the next 2 weeks... am I really up for it?
Well it is 10.15pm, and time for bed. We've agreed to start bright and early tomorrow - 6.00am... welcome to the life of a pilgrim!
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